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Capitán Giuseppe d'Urso: de Sicilia... al ‘ferry Sicilia’


La escena es para retener en la memoria: es lunes y el ferry Sicilia entra lento, suave y solemne por la bocana sur del puerto de Barcelona mientras amanece por el horizonte. El puente de mando está tranquilo, en un silencio total que solo se ve interrumpido por puntuales llamadas de radio desde la torre de control del puerto dirigido a otros ferries, cruceros gaseros y portacontenedores que también están maniobrando para llegar o salir a esa hora. Giuseppe d'Urso mira a proa y alternativamente al radar. Al lado del Capitán, el primer y el segundo oficial del buque, también serios y concentrados durante la maniobra, se van fijando en el resto de buques, grúas, torres o muelles que van quedando a ambos costados y seguimos adelante hasta que, en un momento, el oficial que no está al timón informa al capitán que abandona el puente para preparar el desembarque. Quedan pocos minutos para que se termine la travesía en su amarre habitual junto a la terminal Port Nou, en el extremo sur del Moll Adossat. En el enorme puente todo está tranquilo... y si lo está es precisamente por la concentración de todos. Contrariamente a lo que sucede en otros buques, no ha subido el práctico a bordo, pues el capitán d'Urso tiene la llamada "exención de practicaje", un certificado que asegura que quien está al mando conoce perfectamente el puerto, ha hecho un cierto número de maniobras o escalas en los últimos meses y por lo tanto, no requiere de apoyo de un segundo capitán de la Marina Mercante para navegar por las aguas interiores y atracar o desatracar. Cuando llegamos ya a la altura del muelle, el capitán da una orden clara: va a tomar los mandos desde el alerón de estribor (el saliente del puente de mando por su lado derecho) y unos momentos después recorre, a la vista del Oficial, la distancia hasta el otro alerón, donde de nuevo toma los mandos y deja el buque perfectamente encajado entre el muelle y el saliente o tacón, sobre el que se abrirá la rampa para la salida de vehículos una vez el barco quede totalmente amarrado y parado.     De este modo se da por  terminado un Ibiza-Barcelona más, la línea adjudicada al ferry Sicilia en los últimos meses y en la que está previsto que siga, como mínimo, hasta octubre, operando diariamente. Con el barco ya amarrado el capitán cambia el semblante serio por una sonrisa abierta seguida por una propuesta irrechazable a primera hora de la mañana: tomar un buen desayuno. Con un café en la mano y sentados en la cafetería del buque, este marino siciliano está satisfecho con su vida: "puede parecer que siempre hagamos lo mismo... pero cada travesía acaba siendo diferente, por mucho que sepa que hoy estamos en Barcelona, luego en Ibiza y regresemos otra vez a este puerto, al cabo de unas horas. Lo importante es estar siempre atento, tomarse todo muy en serio y nunca confiarse o dejarse llevar por la rutina", confiesa en un muy buen español que ha ido mejorando a medida que ha navegado con Baleària, donde llegó en primavera de 2015 con la incorporación de los dos ferries gemelos Sicilia y Nápoles a la compañía. "Son dos barcos excelentes, tienen 185 metros de eslora muy bien aprovechados y fueron construidos el mismo año, aunque lógicamente uno es algo más 'antiguo' en meses que el otro: el Nápoles es el buque número 194 de los astilleros Visentini y el Sicilia el 195", aclara d'Urso, "sin embargo, al segundo se le fueron afinando desde el astillero algunos detalles que en el primero fueron apareciendo con las pruebas de flotación y de mar. Detalles que luego se corrigen para que la navegación sea perfecta, los motores rindan bien a 22 nudos, y que los pasajeros y clientes lleguen al destino satisfechos", comenta. Al capitán, formado inicialmente en el Instituto Técnico Nautico Luigi Rizzo en Riposto, al norte de Catania, le gusta que el barco que manda lleve el nombre de su isla, a la que frecuentemente echa de menos, aunque se siente muy contento navegando entre la península y baleares: "navegar en Baleares es muy grato: estuve viajando por otras zonas del mundo desde mediados de los 90 hasta bien entrado en siglo XXI y no tiene nada que ver, tanto por la vida a bordo de otro tipo de buques como por la situación social de algunos países ", rememora. También recuerda una larga etapa en la que estuvo navegando con el ferry Sicilia y su gemelo, cuando estos se llamaban ‘Trinacria’ y ‘Partenope’, cubriendo una única línea entre Nápoles y Catania para la naviera italiana Tomasos Transport & Tourism. "Fue una época muy chula y estaba siempre cerca de mi familia, mi gente, mi isla... pero soy marino y tengo asumido que he elegido una vida que no siempre te hace estar cerca de los tuyos. Donde sí que estoy es en mi barco, que al principio estuvo fletado a Baleària hasta que pasó a ser propiedad de la misma, lo que ha sido todo un acierto: estos dos barcos son dos excelentes buques" reconoce nuevamente. El capitán d'Urso también reconoce que el buen entendimiento entre todos los tripulantes es una de las claves para que un barco navegue aún mejor: "este es un trabajo muy intenso: estamos de un lado a otro, aunque siempre en el mismo sitio. Lo que cambia son nuestros pasajeros. Para evitar la monotonía hay que tener incentivos y fuera de la época de trabajo más fuerte, que son los meses de verano, animo a la tripulación a que aprovechen el día libre y que desconecten de sus obligaciones diarias, es sanísimo... y también procuro hacerlo yo, por más que en mis días embarcado tengo al ferry en la cabeza las 24 horas" reconoce. De Sicilia al mundo, luego de regreso a Italia y actualmente en Baleària, satisfecho y feliz, Giuseppe d'Urso toma un segundo café antes de retirarse: "tengo que preparar documentación y todo lo necesario para la siguiente travesía", comenta, mientras apura la taza y regresa a su cabina para seguir trabajando. Como se diría en italiano... "E la nave va" Javier Ortega Figueiral | @Sr_Jof    

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Morocco's Mediterranean side
Guías de viajes

Morocco's Mediterranean side

  This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome.   Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline.   1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre.   Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea   2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed.     3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish.   Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage   4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region.     5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village.   Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane     6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night.   7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters.   8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village.   Green is associated with Paradise in Islam   9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters.   10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants. 


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Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Guías de viajes

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels

  Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle.   With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera.   2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10.   Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it.   Sea and mountains in Sóller   7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife.   8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach.   9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet.   Horses accompany cycle tourists


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