Conexión Tánger, viaja a la ciudad más cosmopolita de Marruecos
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Conexión Tánger, viaja a la ciudad más cosmopolita de Marruecos

Por Julio Fernández. Fotos: Vicens Giménez


 

A solo una hora de Tarifa, Tánger seduce con su medina, su kasbah y una historia marcada por el cruce de culturas. Ahora, con Baleària, descubrir la ciudad más cosmopolita y literaria de Marruecos es más fácil que nunca, gracias a su conexión marítima desde Tarifa y a los paquetes de excursiones que permiten explorar su riqueza cultural, histórica y gastronómica.

 

Ciudad de fronteras físicas y emociocionales, Tánger irradia una atracción irresistible en sus visitantes que ha perdurado bajo el dominio portugués, inglés, español y francés. Y todo ello sin perder su identidad e idiosincrasia marroquí. De hecho, durante el protectorado internacional (1923- 1956), ese carácter de mestizaje y cosmopolita la convirtió en un oasis para escritores, bohemios y artistas que disfrutaron aquí de la libertad, inspiración y coste de vida económico que no encontraron en sus países de origen. Paul Bowles, Jack Kerouac, William Burroughs, Truman Capote, Jean Genet, Juan Goytisolo... Todos cayeron bajo el hechizo tangerino.

 

Día 1

Desde mayo, Baleària opera la ruta entre el puerto de Tarifa y el de Tánger Ville con dos fast ferries que cubren ambos destinos del estrecho de Gibraltar en apenas una hora. En su web se pueden contratar paquetes de excursión de un día (Esencias de Tánger, Maravillas de Tánger y Vip Day Trip) o más días (Excursión + hotel). ¡Empezamos!

 

 

Cuevas de Hércules
 


09:00
Salida desde Tarifa y llegada a Tánger. La aventura comienza ya en el puerto de Tarifa con la experiencia de viaje a bordo del fast ferry y continúa a la llegada a Tánger Ville. Desde ahí, a tan solo diez minutos a pie (o cinco en autobús), encontrarás la puerta Bab alMarsa –junto al mítico hotel Continental–, una de las que da acceso a la medina: nuestro primer destino.


10:30
Zocos: un viaje sensorial. Prepárate para sumergirte en uno de los escenarios más intensos de la medina: los zocos (Zoco Pequeño, Zoco Grande y Zoco de las Especias), donde una sinfonía de olores, colores y sonidos se despliega a cada paso: puestos de especias, pan recién horneado, artesanía en cuero, teteras de plata repujadas..., acompañados del eco del martilleo de los artesanos y el bullicio de los comerciantes de fondo. Más que mercados, los zocos son el corazón palpitante de Tánger.

 

 

Calle concurrida del zoco
 


14:00
¡Bon appetit! Llega el momento de descubrir la gastronomía local con el almuerzo incluido en las excursiones de Baleària Maravillas de Tánger y Vip Day Trip. Nuestra sugerencia: harira, brochetas, cuscús aromático y té con hierbabuena. De postre, los irresistibles dulces de miel y frutos secos, que no pueden faltar en cualquier mesa marroquí.


17:00
Descubriendo la kasbah. Desde el Gran Zoco, tres calles conducen a la parte alta de la ciudad donde está la antigua fortaleza o kasbah: la rue de la Kasbah, que empieza en el Zoco Pequeño y asciende en zigzag hacia la puerta principal de la kasbah (Bab el Kasbah); la rue Riad Sultan, pasando por riads y museos; y el pasaje por Bab Haha, puerta histórica de acceso a la kasbah. Imprescindible es la visita al Museo de la Kasbah (Dar el Makhzen), que ocupa el antiguo palacio del sultán y alberga piezas únicas: mosaicos romanos, cerámicas andalusíes y manuscritos coránicos. Muy cerca, el Mirador ofrece una panorámica inigualable del Estrecho; incluso, en los días despejados, se puede ver la costa andaluza. En tu exploración por la kasbah, recorre sus callejones y deja que la arquitectura andalusí —con sus fachadas encaladas y puertas de madera tallada— te transporte a los pueblos blancos del sur de Andalucía con los que comparte ese legado común. Por la tarde, ya de vuelta al puerto, acaba la jornada tomando un té o café en los icónicos cafés Centrale y Tingis (plaza del Zoco Pequeño).

 

 

Museo de la Kasbah
 

 

Día 2

Para descubrir otros lugares de interés de Tánger más allá de la medina, te proponemos ampliar tu estancia uno o más días con el paquete Excursión más hotel.


10:00
Visita a los barrios internacionales. Entre 1923 y 1956, Tánger fue administrada como zona internacional bajo el control de diferentes potencias europeas: franceses, españoles, ingleses, italianos... Todas dejaron su huella formando barrios residenciales y edificios que hoy son un herencia histórica y visita turística obligada. España, como potencia protectora del norte marroquí, dejó su impronta reconocible en el barrio España, cuyo centro es la actual plaza de Kuwait, con edificios como el consulado, el Instituto Cervantes y centros educativos como el Ramón y Cajal o el Severo Ochoa. Muy cerca, el barrio de San Francisco ofrece una visión más social de este legado, con viviendas obreras, escuelas y hospitales construidos por los franciscanos. El Gran Teatro Cervantes, aunque en estado de abandono, recuerda la efervescencia cultural de aquella época. Otros imprescindibles son el cine Alcázar (ya restaurado) o los edificios modernistas de la plaza 9 de abril (Zoco Grande).


13:00
Cabo Espartel. A solo 14 kilómetros de Tánger se encuentra Cabo Espartel, coronado por su faro construido en 1864. Desde aquí, el Mediterráneo y el Atlántico se unen en un horizonte sin límite. Sin duda, ¡un momento instagrammer! y lugar perfecto para sentir el magnetismo telúrico de Tánger, donde el continente africano se asoma a Europa.


17:00
Cuevas de Hércules. Seguimos en ruta desde Cabo Espartel en dirección a las Cuevas de Hércules, cinco kilómetros de distancia para descubrir un espacio cargado de mitos. En su interior, una gran abertura en la roca que da al mar tiene forma de mapa invertido de África. Según la mitología, aquí descansó Hércules tras separar Europa de África. Otros dicen que fueron los fenicios quienes tallaron estas cuevas. Sea como fuere, la mezcla de historia, mitos y belleza natural lo convierten en una parada obligatoria.

 

La medina, los zocos, la kasbah, los barrios internacionales, cabo Espartel, las Cuevas de Hércules… Elijas la opción que elijas, recuerda que con la nueva conexión marítima entre Tarifa-Tánger Ville de Baleària, nunca ha sido tan fácil descubrir la ciudad más literaria y cosmopolita de Marruecos. ¡Nos acompañas!

 

 

Playa de Achalcar (al oeste de Tánger)
 

 

OTROS LUGARES DE INTERÉS: TÁNGER Y MÁS

Si la visita a la ciudad de Tánger te ha abierto el apetito viajero, toma nota de algunos lugares cercanos que merece la pena explorar.

  • Playa de Merkala y Achakar. Ideal para un día de descanso. Ambas están en la costa atlántica. La primera, a tres kilómetros del centro de Tánger. La segunda, a 12 kilómetros, junto a los acantilados de las Cuevas de Hércules.
  • Asilah, un museo al aire libre. Pueblo pesquero ubicado a 50 kilómetros de Tánger y 100 de Ceuta. Lo más destacado: la medina rodeada por las murallas construidas por los portugueses en el siglo XV y el Festival Cultural Internacional, que se celebra en agosto. Esta iniciativa convierte los encalados muros de la medina en lienzos en los que, desde hace 47 años, dejan su huella numerosos artistas internacionales.
  • El azul de Chaouen. La carretera N-2 une Tánger con Chaouen, un recorrido de 110 kilómetros con final en la 'ciudad azul celeste', remanso de paz y tranquilidad al abrigo de las montañas del Rif.

 

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Morocco's Mediterranean side
Guías de viajes

Morocco's Mediterranean side

  This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome.   Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline.   1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre.   Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea   2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed.     3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish.   Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage   4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region.     5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village.   Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane     6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night.   7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters.   8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village.   Green is associated with Paradise in Islam   9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters.   10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants. 


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Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Guías de viajes

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels

  Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle.   With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera.   2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10.   Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it.   Sea and mountains in Sóller   7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife.   8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach.   9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet.   Horses accompany cycle tourists


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