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Fauna marina, desde casa


Estos días de confinamiento del COVID19 somos muchas personas las que añoramos el mar y su fauna: tortugas, cetáceos, aves, peces luna o atunes saltarines además de la brisa salada impactando en nuestras caras mirando el azul de nuestros mares. Sin embargo, algunos de estos no han desaparecido completamente de nuestras vidas.  Especialmente si tenemos la suerte de vivir cerca del mar o, incluso mejor, con vistas al mar.

Toda la costa, balear o peninsular, incluso canaria o del norte de África, no es uniforme ni alberga la misma fauna. Pero en todas ellas hay aves que penetran en las ciudades, o las sobrevuelan, hasta el punto de llegar a nidificar en algún caso. Las bahías y playas, menos frecuentadas por embarcaciones, han sido recuperadas por algunos cetáceos que se aventuran cerca de playas o bocanas de puertos. E incluso el gran rorcual común se ha avistado en su migración hacia el mar de Liguria desde algunas privilegiadas casas cerca del mar en el litoral de Tarragona. Veamos qué especies marinas son las que más frecuentemente podemos ver y dónde.

Cetáceos

Hay que tener vistas al mar para intentar observar algún cetáceo desde casa, eso está claro. Sin embargo no se trata de una misión imposible. Con una óptica adecuada, prismáticos o, mejor, un telescopio, podríamos observar un sector litoral importante, tal vez de cuatro o más millas dependiendo de la altura donde estemos. Si las condiciones del mar son de calma, sin oleaje ni crestas, es posible que cualquier alteración del mar, salto o aleta, sea visible. Y ese movimiento de la superficie del mar es posible que corresponda a la aleta de un delfín mular (Tursiops truncatus), el delfín que todo el mundo reconoce de los delfinarios o películas, de color gris y tamaño grande,  y que es muy costero. Habitualmente se observan delfines mulares en las costas de Ibiza, e incluso cerca del puerto, en la bahía de Palma o en la de Alcúdia e inmediaciones de Ciutadella, en Menorca. También en tránsito por la costa peninsular, incluso a las afueras de Barcelona o la comarca del Maresme, al norte de la ciudad condal. En el estrecho de Gibraltar abundan más los cetáceos. Las personas afortunadas con vistas al mar en la zona tal vez observen los allí residentes calderones (Globicephala melas), delfines aparte. En Canarias también los hay, junto con mulares, por ejemplo en algunas zonas costeras de Tenerife. Todo es cuestión de mirar en días favorables, de mar plana.

Algunos observadores, sabedores de que estamos en época de migración de rorcuales (Balaenoptera physalus), han invertido horas en intentar obtener alguna cita desde casa. Con éxito. En Tarragona se han observado ejemplares mar adentro desde Torredembarra y pescadores, trabajando estos días en la mar, los han visto en las costas de Barcelona.  Es el segundo cetáceo más grande del mundo después de la ballena azul y su observación a veces es delatada por el chorro de vapor de agua que exhalan desde su espiráculo, situado en su parte superior y cuya forma puede recordar a la silueta de un ciprés.

Aves

Lo que es cierto es que no todo el mundo puede vivir en primera línea de mar. Pero eso no quiere decir que no podamos disfrutar de algunas especies marinas. Si tenemos un puerto cerca, o una costa rocosa, tal vez podamos observar algún cormorán moñudo (Phalacrocorax aristotelis desmarestii), especialmente si estamos en  Balears o en la costa levantina. Algunos puertos acogen charranes, sobre todo patinegros (Thalasseus sandvicensis), que se concentran en boyas o zonas de amarre y que se diferencian de las gaviotas porque capturan peces tirándose al mar, zambulléndose picando desde el aire. En esta época primaveral están a punto de irse, si no lo han hecho ya del todo, los cormoranes grandes (Phalacrocorax carbo), que a veces sobrevuelan las ciudades en vuelos migratorios en ‘V’. Aunque cría en algunos embalses de la Península, es un invernante frecuente en las costas ibéricas desde las que migra hacia el norte, hacia el Báltico donde nidificará. Cualquier bando de aves negras y grandes, volando altas hacia el norte, bien puede ser de esta especie que, aunque es casi siempre negra, tiene la cabeza blanca en los adultos estivales y la barriga más o menos blanquecina en los jóvenes inmaduros de uno o dos años.

Las aves marinas más conocidas, sin embargo, son las gaviotas. Y no todas son especies comunes o incluso molestas para algunas personas. Una de ellas está amenazada de extinción: la gaviota de Audouin (Ichthyaetus audouinii). Esta especie, de tamaño grande, bastante mayor que la de una paloma, tiene las patas grises y el pico rojo. Es propia de la cuenca mediterránea aunque en invierno se puede ver alguna en las Canarias. Nidifica en la ciudad de Ceuta, en las islas Chafarinas, en las Balears, en las salinas de Torrevella en Alacant, València, el Delta de l’Ebre, Tarragona y Barcelona. Frecuentan los puertos y pueden sobrevolar las partes costeras de la ciudad. E incluso algunas de ellas portan una anilla plástica con letras, que indican su lugar de procedencia. Se especula, incluso, que estos días de confinamiento y relativa calma puedan ayudar a que esta especie protegida colonice alguna otra localidad o lugar, lo cual sería de gran interés para la conservación de la especie.

Sin embargo, el ave marina que no solo se puede observar en ciudades sino que incluso las ha colonizado y nidifica en algunas terrazas, es la gaviota patiamarilla (Larus michahellis). Esta gaviota, la ‘grande’ a la cual estamos casi todo el mundo familiarizados, presenta las patas y pico amarillos, las partes inferiores blancas y el manto de color gris pizarra. Suele ser sedentaria, aunque puede llegar algún ejemplar invernal de otras latitudes a reforzar las poblaciones locales. En Canarias existe una subespecie más oscura, la ‘atlantis’ que sin embargo por lo demás es similar en diseño de la presente en el Mediterráneo. Durante el mes de abril efectuarán sus puestas, de hasta tres huevos, en sus colonias de cría, normalmente acantilados, playas o lugares apartados, pero también ciudades. Algunas terrazas apartadas pueden acoger una pareja nidificante y lo descubriréis cuando el mes de mayo, en caso de intentar subir y acercaros a los pollos, las gaviotas patiamarillas intenten protegerlos llegando a gritar o volar cerca de los humanos ‘invasores’. Esta ocupación no durará. El mes de junio volarán los pollos y las gaviotas no volverán a ser territoriales hasta el año siguiente. Esos edificios, esas terrazas aisladas, no dejan de ser acantilados artificiales que también acogen otras especies rupícolas como el vencejo real (Apus melba) o el colirrojo tizón (Phoenicurus ochruros) y aunque mucho menos glamurosos que unas deseables vistas al mar, tal vez nos recuerden con sus voces y vuelos nuestros viajes marinos y nuestro anhelado mar que esperemos volvamos a disfrutar bien pronto.

Ricard Gutiérrez y Emma Guinart | www.pelagicus.cat

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Morocco's Mediterranean side
Guías de viajes

Morocco's Mediterranean side

  This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome.   Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline.   1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre.   Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea   2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed.     3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish.   Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage   4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region.     5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village.   Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane     6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night.   7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters.   8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village.   Green is associated with Paradise in Islam   9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters.   10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants. 


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Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Guías de viajes

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels

  Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle.   With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera.   2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10.   Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it.   Sea and mountains in Sóller   7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife.   8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach.   9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet.   Horses accompany cycle tourists


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