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Melilla, en dos días

Por Nacho Sánchez | Periodista  


Melilla es especial. Un lugar tan único como particular. Donde la mezcla de culturas se hace evidente en cada rincón. Y con mucho que ofrecer. Sobre todo a nivel cultural, ya que cuenta con un interesante patrimonio, ubicado fundamentalmente en la imponente Melilla La Vieja. Un recinto fortificado que es, sin duda, el mayor atractivo de la Ciudad Autónoma. Por eso, un fin de semana en Melilla debe arrancar en la mañana del sábado por las callejuelas que atraviesan la enorme muralla. La Puerta de la Marina da acceso a un viaje en el tiempo entre baluartes y cañones, pero también a la posibilidad de conocer la historia de la localidad a través de diferentes espacios museísticos. El Centro de Interpretación es un buen lugar para empezar, aunque uno de los lugares más interesantes es el Museo de Arqueología e Historia, ubicado en unos viejos almacenes del siglo XVIII y donde se puede descubrir la huella dejada por las diferentes civilizaciones que han pasado por este rincón del continente africano.   [caption id="attachment_2704" align="aligncenter" width="1000"] melilla en dos días Cuevas del Conventico.[/caption]   Un poco más arriba se ubica el Museo Andrés García Ibáñez de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo y, a tan solo unos metros, el Museo de Arte Sacro. Este recinto cuenta además con una sorpresa en su interior: las llamadas Cuevas del Conventico. Se trata de una serie de túneles que combinan zonas naturales con otras excavadas donde se refugiaba la población en caso de ataque. Hoy suponen un interesante paseo bajo tierra que culmina con la preciosa estampa de la Cala de Trápana, de aguas turquesas y conchas marinas. La imagen del imponente Arco Parabólico da una composición aún más especial a un lugar únicamente accesible por las cuevas o el mar. Finalmente, junto al bonito Faro de Melilla, el Museo Militar ofrece una coqueta colección y una serie de miradores panorámicos sobre la ciudad, con la Ensenada de los Galápagos en primer término y enmarcada por el antiguo presidio y la vieja Plaza de Armas. Hasta allí se puede llegar a través de otra de las puertas del antiguo corazón melillense, hasta que el paseo desemboca en la Plaza de las Cuatro Culturas. Un monumento que rinde homenaje a la buena convivencia entre personas de religión católica, musulmana, judía e hindú que residen en Melilla. La mañana se habrá esfumado entonces y será el momento del primer acercamiento a la gastronomía local. Allí mismo se ubica el Bar Sevilla, con uno de los mejores pinchitos morunos de la ciudad y una terraza que, con buen tiempo, invita a quedarse. Pero como el tapeo es una de las mejores cosas que hacer en Melilla, merece la pena seguir una ruta que se detenga en lugares como La Cervecería o Entrevinos. El punto final lo puede poner Casa Sadia.   [caption id="attachment_2701" align="aligncenter" width="1000"] Tapa en la Cervecería.[/caption]   Todos estos establecimientos se ubican en el centro de la nueva ciudad, la mejor zona para pasar la tarde. Sus dos avenidas principales son las del Ejército Español y la de Juan Carlos I. Ambas nacen en la enorme Plaza de España, como también lo hace el parque Hernández, y conforman el denominado Triángulo de Oro del modernismo. Es quizás una de las características más interesantes y curiosas de una localidad que cuenta con unos 900 edificios de este estilo arquitectónico. Lo más imponentes los diseñó Enrique Nieto, arquitecto discípulo de Gaudí, que llevo a Melilla este tipo de construcciones a comienzos del siglo XX y convirtió al municipio en el mayor exponente nacional tras Barcelona. Existen numerosos edificios modernistas, como el edificio de El Telegrama del Rif, el de la Cámara de Comercio o la llamada Casa de los Cristales. También tienen este estilo la Sinagoga Yamín Benarroch y la Mezquita Central. Con la llegada de la noche, es más que recomendable acercarse hasta la zona sur para visita el restaurante El Caracol Moderno, donde probar algunos de los mejores platos de la cultura árabe en la ciudad. Couscous, tajine o pastelas son tres estupendas opciones, como también cualquiera de las muchas opciones de la carta, que también incluye mariscos y pescados. Un té moruno tras el postre es una tradición que no se puede olvidar. Un paseo por la playa pone un perfecto punto y final al día, como también tomar algo en alguno de los establecimientos del Puerto Noray para alargar la noche del sábado.   [caption id="attachment_2703" align="aligncenter" width="1000"] melilla en dos días Avenida del Ejército Español.[/caption]   Al día siguiente, cualquiera de las playas de la zona sur de Melilla son perfectas para un chapuzón, ya sea la de los Cárabos, la del Hipódromo o la de la Hípica. Arena limpia y dorada, una hamaca y una sombrilla conforman un gran plan para sentir la brisa marina y el sol del norte de África. El paseo marítimo cuenta con diversos negocios donde saborear el mejor pescado local, entre los que destaca el restaurante Miguel Benítez, con estupendos arroces, frituras y parrilladas. Un café en la confitería Montemar, acompañado de exquisitos dulces árabes, y un paseo por el Fuerte Victoria son el complemento ideal para la tarde del domingo. También las compras: un rincón imperdible es la calle Pablo Vallesca, cerca de la Plaza de las Cuatro Culturas, donde varios bazares ofrecen numerosos productos de inspiración árabe. Si hay tiempo, merece la pena tapear de nuevo para seguir probando algunos bocados característicos de Melilla en lugares como Casa Marta o La Cantina para acabar la visita a Melilla con el mejor sabor de boca. Nacho Sánchez | Periodista  

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Morocco's Mediterranean side
Guías de viajes

Morocco's Mediterranean side

  This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome.   Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline.   1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre.   Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea   2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed.     3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish.   Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage   4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region.     5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village.   Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane     6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night.   7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters.   8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village.   Green is associated with Paradise in Islam   9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters.   10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants. 


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Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Guías de viajes

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels

  Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle.   With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera.   2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10.   Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it.   Sea and mountains in Sóller   7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife.   8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach.   9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet.   Horses accompany cycle tourists


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