English
Spanish
Catalan
French
Italian Las playas de piedra no son para todo el mundo. A muchos no les gustan, pero otros las adoran. Por su intimidad, porque nunca están masificadas, porque no suele haber mares de hamacas, porque no vuelven a casa rebozados de arena… Los que aman estas calas saben que en la bolsa de playa no pueden faltar tres cosas: una toalla gordita, para amortiguar los bordes de las piedras bajo el cuerpo; unos escarpines, para proteger las plantas de los pies de las rocas de bordes afilados, y unas gafas de buceo, para no perderse el espectáculo de peces, pulpos, erizos y cangrejos que viven en el fondo rocoso. Es Colodar Son las cinco de la tarde en la playa de Es Codolar. Da igual si es invierno o pleno agosto. Apenas hay nadie. Sólo un cabo (Cap des Falcó) la separa de la popular Ses Salines. El sol del día ha calentado los cantos rodados. El agradable calor sube desde la planta de los pies. Sólo se oyen las olas del mar, a punto de comerse el sol en uno de los atardeceres más impactantes y diáfanos de la isla. [caption id="attachment_759" align="aligncenter" width="1000"] 
Autor: Sergio G. Cañizares[/caption] Se puede llegar desde dos puntos: la carretera que va a Es Jondal o el camino que pasa junto a los estanques salineros. Sea por donde sea la soledad está casi asegurada. En verano, en el centro de la playa de piedras, las voces de los clientes del chiringuito y el beach club suenan lejanas, casi como un gorjeo de pájaros. El agua es clara. Limpia. Para llegar a ella basta con caminar sobre las piedras más grandes y, ya en la orilla, aunque las olas sólo lleguen a las rodillas, lanzarse. Dejarse abrazar por el mar y nadar mar adentro. Bucear, sumergir la cabeza, escuchar el canto de las piedras, el roce de unas contra otras mecidas por el vaivén de las olas. Es Jondal [caption id="attachment_757" align="alignnone" width="1000"] 
Cala Jondal (autor: Sergio G. Cañizares)[/caption] A sólo unos kilómetros, casi perdida entre camas balinesas, sombrillas mastodónticas, barras, mesas y cabinas de discjockey está Es Jondal, la playa de piedras preferida por antiguas generaciones de ibicencos. Ahora, aquel rincón de aguas tranquilas y frías en el que los domingos se saludaban las familias que afrontaban el día de playa con neveras y fiambreras se ha convertido en una de las playas más fashion de la isla. Al principio de la bahía, casi pegado a los altos acantilados que la separan de Porroig, aún queda un rincón libre de hamacas y sombrillas. Un rincón en el que conviven códols (piedras o cantos rodados) y arena, donde estirar la toalla y contemplar la vida de playa. Ver, entre chapuzón y chapuzón, yates impresionantes, espectaculares bañistas en triquini, bandejas cargadas del champán más caro… Escuchar, enlazadas con el rumor del mar, las risas cristalinas de quienes convierten la playa en fiesta, y la música de los platos de mezclas al sol. Cala Olivera y Cala Salada Ni fashion, ni música, ni glamour. Quienes se sienten en la minúscula Cala Olivera (escondida en la urbanización de Roca Llisa) sólo verán mar, cielo y rocas. Y sólo escucharán el viento y el mar. De piedras pequeñas, los restos de posidonia sirven de colchón. Igual que la arena en Cala Salada, a sólo unos metros (y un camino complicado) de la bellísima Cala Saladeta, donde las piedras, casi grava, resuenan bajo los pies mientras se avanza hacia el horizonte. Cala Xuclar [caption id="attachment_758" align="alignnone" width="1000"] 
Cala Xuclar (autor: Sergio G. Cañizares)[/caption] Llegar a Cala des Xuclar, al norte de la isla, no es fácil. El camino que baja hasta la diminuta cala es empinado, apenas cabe un coche y hay alguna curva. El riesgo vale la pena. Metros de arena preceden a una orilla cuajada de pequeñas piedras. Arena para estirar la toalla. Piedras para disuadir a la mayoría. Llegar al agua y dejar que los pies se hundan entre las cuentas es uno de los placeres de esta cala. Esperar. Sentir cómo las piedras se van montando unas sobre otras. Notar el agua y las piedras resbalando sobre los tobillos. Cuesta renunciar a eso para avanzar sobre un fondo irregular, complicado, en el que la planta del pie tantea antes de pisar con convicción. Lo mejor es zambullirse de golpe, olvidar el suelo, nadar rumbo al norte entre los brazos que delimitan la cala. Si se acerca el mediodía es un espectáculo bucear mientras el personal del chiringuito arroja al mar los descartes del pescado del día. Decenas de peces se arremolinan buscando la comida fácil. Imposible apartar la vista. Siguiendo las rocas de la izquierda hay un tesoro. Una pequeña gruta. Sólo hay que sumergirse unos segundos para acceder a ella. La oscuridad de la cueva es un alivio para los ojos y la piel llenos de sol. Es fresca. Hay vida. Y todo un mundo por descubrir. Marta Torres | Periodista
Guías de viajes
Morocco's Mediterranean side
This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome. Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline. 1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre. Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea 2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed. 3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish. Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage 4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region. 5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village. Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane 6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night. 7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters. 8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village. Green is associated with Paradise in Islam 9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters. 10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants.
Read more
Guías de viajes
Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle. With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera. 2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10. Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it. Sea and mountains in Sóller 7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife. 8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach. 9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet. Horses accompany cycle tourists
Read more
