Melilla: modernista, española y divina

Por Tania Costa. Fotos: Patronato de Turismo de Melilla | 20 de November de 2022

Es la segunda ciudad española con más edificios modernistas, solo por detrás de Barcelona. Ahí siguen, erguidas, en pie, pese al salitre, las majestuosas edificaciones que hacen de la ciudad un sitio muy especial, con mucho encanto arquitectónico, y una excelente gastronomía.

Cambiar de mundo en cuestión de minutos al pasar de Europa a Marruecos cruzando la frontera. Melilla es puente entre dos universos. De esos lugares que sorprenden gratamente. El modernismo y la diversidad de las culturas musulmanas, judía, cristiana, hindú, gitana y china que conviven en ella hacen de la ciudad un sitio muy diferente y especial. En este 2022, Melilla cumple 525 años de españolidad. A ella llegas llorando, pero el refrán advierte de que de aquí también te vas llorando.

Día 1:
08:00
Empezar el día haciendo deporte. Por el paseo de las Horcas Coloradas. Cuando corres por esa zona, tus ojos se clavan en las montañas de Marruecos que tienes enfrente. La vista es espectacular.

09:30
Reponer fuerzas en La Selecta, una cafetería con terraza que da a la Avenida Juan Carlos I, el centro neurálgico del Modernismo. Aquí puedes degustar el desayuno típico melillense: té moruno con churros. En la acera de enfrente, está la escultura del arquitecto Enrique Nieto, hacedor del milagro de convertir Melilla en cuna modernista de tintes catalanes.

10:30
Inicio del recorrido por el centro. A tiro de piedra tienes el Palacio de la Asamblea, construido en 1932. Es un edificio modernista con dos torres árabes, que refleja el combo cultural que es la ciudad. Subiendo por la avenida tienes la Casa Tortosa, de 1914. Maravillosa e imponente pese a los cables que estrangulan su fachada.

11:30
Un vistazo a los edificios emblemáticos. El edificio La Reconquista, construido en 1915, da a la Plaza Menéndez Pelayo y a la iglesia del Sagrado Corazón. Ahí, en esa zona, tienes el bar Arábica, por si tienes sed y quieres tomar un zumo natural de naranja.

Edificio La Reconquista, proyectado en 1915

12:30
La Melilla judía. A la espalda de la avenida está la Sinagoga a pocos pasos de la iglesia del Sagrado Corazón, en la calle Ejército Español. Se puede concertar una visita guiada. Es sobrecogedora, como sacada de una leyenda.

14.00
Degustar la gastronomía local. Ve a Casa Sadia (junto a la Sinagoga) para probar los langostinos de la Mar Chica y los pinchitos morunos. Si prefieres buena carne, tienes La Traviata, te queda cerca y se come de escándalo. Si buscas comida casera de cuchara, el restaurante Mar de Alborán (General Prim, 24) tiene menú diario que lo mismo te combina unas lentejas con hígado a la moruna, que un caldero bereber (carne en salsa) con una ensalada.

16:00
Tarde de playa. Prueba los mojitos del chiringuito Soul Beach, en la playa de San Lorenzo. Hay que ver la cala de la Ensenada de Galápagos, una playita escondida entre las rocas.

21:00
Pescaíto frito para cenar: En la calle Castelar, hay tres bares con Soletes de la Guía Repsol: La Gaviota, Castelar y La Casa de L’Abuela (este último solo abre los fines de semana).

22:00
Puedes tomar algo en Melilla La Vieja, en el bar de la Plaza de Estopiñán.

La Casa Tortosa es una de las joyas de Enric Nieto

Día 2:
10:00
Visita al cementerio de La Purísima. Es pequeño, pero especial. En él están enterrados los héroes de la Guerra del Rif. No te pierdas la tumba del Soldado de los Milagros, Benito López Franco, muy venerado en la ciudad.

11:00
Incursión en el Rastro. Desde el cementerio, bajando por Castelar te encuentras la Melilla modernista devastada por el paso de los años. A tu derecha, tienes el barrio del Rastro y la Mezquita central, un edificio modernista diseñado por Enrique Nieto. En los alrededores tienes un cafetín y muchas tiendas pequeñas donde comprar chilabas, dátiles, artesanía marroquí o los típicos tallines de barro y las cuscuseras. Si tienes dudas de cómo hacer el cuscús, pídele a la dependienta que te dé la receta. Es fabulosa.

14:00
Hora del cuscús. Prueba un buen cuscús en el restaurante Caracol Moderno. Comida bereber exquisita y una decoración a tono. De una gama más modesta tienes el cuscús del Europizza (Calle La Legión, 36). No te dejes llevar por el nombre. Es único. Prueba el batido de aguacate.

Hora del cuscús

17:00
La Melilla verde. No te vayas de Melilla sin visitar el Parque Forestal o el Parque Hernández, pegado al centro. Ideal para fotos de Instagram, pero sobre todo para apreciar el ir y venir de culturas. Tiene un bar donde tomar una cerveza mientras disfrutas del paisaje.

19:00
La ciudad desde arriba. No te pierdas las vistas subiendo a la terraza del Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Casa del Reloj. Desde ahí arriba, Melilla es inmensa pese a tener poco más de 12 kilómetros cuadrados.

21:00
Cena de despedida. Tienes que probar el restaurante Instinto (Carlos de Arellano, 12). Tiene buenos vinos y langostinos de la Mar Chica muy frescos. No dejes de probar la ensaladilla con nueces o el tartar de atún.

23:00
De vuelta a la Avenida Juan Carlos I, pasarás por el edificio de la Comandancia Militar de Melilla y más adelante está el inmueble conocido como El Acueducto, en la avenida Reyes Católicos, frente a la sede de la UNED. Inaugurado en 1928, es una mezcla del estilo clásico, art decó y modernista. De los más bellos de la ciudad aunque el criterio general destaca La Casa de los Cristales, que en su día fue el Gran Hotel Reina Victoria (Prim, 18).

La Casa de Los Cristales, en su día hotel Reina Victoria

Imprescindible: Té moruno, Cuscús y Duty Free

Imprescindible probar el té moruno, los pinchitos morunos y el cuscús. El Rastro para ir de compras y la calle Castelar para probar pescados fritos. Recuerda que en Melilla el tabaco y el alcohol son más baratos que en la península porque no tienen impuestos. Tienes varias tiendas Duty Free en la Avenida con una selección de productos de lujo. Trae zapatillas y bañador. Camina la ciudad, corre y, si el tiempo lo permite, date un chapuzón en la playa Ensenada de Galápagos. Tómate una copa o un refresco en el kiosco de Melilla La Vieja. Pasea por la Avenida y O’Donnell, el corazón comercial, no dejes de ir al paseo de Horcas Coloradas.

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Guías de viajes

Morocco's Mediterranean side

This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome. Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline. 1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre. Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea 2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed. 3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish. Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage 4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region. 5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village. Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane 6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night. 7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters. 8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village. Green is associated with Paradise in Islam 9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters. 10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants.

Guías de viajes

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels

Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle. With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera. 2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10. Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it. Sea and mountains in Sóller 7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife. 8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach. 9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet. Horses accompany cycle tourists

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Melilla: modernista, española y divina

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Morocco's Mediterranean side

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels