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It is the Spanish city with the second-highest number of Modernist buildings, behind only Barcelona. They still stand tall despite the salty sea air: majestic buildings that make the city a very special place, full of architectural charm and excellent food.
You can change worlds in a matter of minutes, crossing the border from Europe into Morocco. Melilla is a bridge between two universes, one of those places that pleasantly surprises you. Its Modernism and the diversity of the Muslim, Jewish, Christian, Hindu, Roma and Chinese cultures that coexist here make the city very different and special. In 2022, Melilla marked 525 years of Spanish sovereignty. People say you arrive in tears, and the local saying warns that you leave in tears too.
Day 1:
08:00
Start the day with some exercise. Along the paseo de las Horcas Coloradas. When you run through this area, your eyes are drawn to the mountains of Morocco directly ahead. The view is spectacular.
09:30
Recharge at La Selecta, a café with a terrace overlooking Avenida Juan Carlos I, the heart of the city's Modernist district. Here you can try a typical Melilla breakfast: Moorish tea with churros. Across the road stands a sculpture of architect Enrique Nieto, the man responsible for turning Melilla into a centre of Modernism with Catalan influences.
10:30
Start exploring the city centre. Just a stone's throw away is the Palacio de la Asamblea, built in 1932. It is a Modernist building with two Arab-style towers, reflecting the city's cultural blend. Farther up the avenue stands the Casa Tortosa, dating from 1914. Beautiful and imposing despite the cables running across its façade.
11:30
Take a look at the landmark buildings. The La Reconquista building, constructed in 1915, faces Plaza Menéndez Pelayo and Sagrado Corazón church. In the same area you will find bar Arábica, ideal if you are thirsty and fancy a freshly squeezed orange juice.
La Reconquista building, designed in 1915
12:30
Jewish Melilla. Behind the avenue is the Sinagoga just a few steps from Sagrado Corazón church on Calle Ejército Español. Guided visits can be arranged. It is striking, almost as if it had come out of a legend.
14.00
Try the local cuisine. Head to Casa Sadia (next to the synagogue) to try Mar Chica prawns and Moorish-style skewers. If you prefer good meat, La Traviata is nearby and the food is excellent. For hearty home-style dishes, Mar de Alborán restaurant (General Prim, 24) serves a daily menu that might combine lentils with Moorish-style liver, a Berber stew (meat in sauce) and a salad.
16:00
Afternoon at the beach. Try the mojitos at the Soul Beach beach bar on San Lorenzo beach. Make sure you also see the cala de la Ensenada de Galápagos, a small beach tucked away between the rocks.
21:00
Fried fish for dinner: on Calle Castelar, three bars have Soletes from the Repsol Guide: La Gaviota, Castelar and La Casa de L’Abuela (the last one opens only at weekends).
22:00
You can have a drink in Melilla La Vieja, at the bar in Plaza de Estopiñán.
Casa Tortosa is one of Enric Nieto's architectural gems
Day 2:
10:00
Visit La Purísima cemetery. It is small, but special. Heroes of the Rif War are buried here. Do not miss the grave of the Soldado de los Milagros, Benito López Franco, who is highly revered in the city.
11:00
Explore the Rastro. From the cemetery, heading down Castelar, you come across Melilla's Modernist heritage weathered by the passing years. On your right are the barrio del Rastro and the Mezquita central, a Modernist building designed by Enrique Nieto. Nearby there is a small café and plenty of shops selling djellabas, dates, Moroccan handicrafts, traditional clay tagines and couscous steamers. If you are not sure how to make couscous, ask the shop assistant for the recipe. It is excellent.
14:00
Time for couscous. Try a good couscous at Caracol Moderno restaurant. Excellent Berber food with décor to match. For a more modest option, try the couscous at Europizza (Calle La Legión, 36). Do not be put off by the name. It is unique. Try the avocado shake.
Time for couscous
17:00
Green Melilla. Do not leave Melilla without visiting the Parque Forestal or Parque Hernández, right next to the centre. They are ideal for Instagram photos, but above all for appreciating the constant meeting of cultures. There is a bar where you can have a beer while enjoying the surroundings.
19:00
The city from above. Do not miss the views from the terrace of the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Casa del Reloj. From up there, Melilla looks huge despite covering little more than 12 square kilometres.
21:00
Farewell dinner. Make sure you try Instinto restaurant (Carlos de Arellano, 12). It has good wines and very fresh Mar Chica prawns. Do not miss the Russian salad with walnuts or the tuna tartare.
23:00
Heading back to Avenida Juan Carlos I, you will pass the Comandancia Militar de Melilla building and, farther on, the property known as El Acueducto, on Avenida Reyes Católicos opposite the UNED campus. Opened in 1928, it combines Classical, Art Deco and Modernist styles. It is one of the city's most beautiful buildings, although general opinion tends to highlight La Casa de los Cristales, once the Gran Hotel Reina Victoria (Prim, 18).
Casa de Los Cristales, formerly the Reina Victoria hotel
Essentials: Moorish tea, couscous and Duty Free
Be sure to try Moorish tea, Moorish-style skewers and couscous. The Rastro is good for shopping and Calle Castelar for fried fish. Tobacco and alcohol are cheaper in Melilla than on mainland Spain because of its different tax regime. There are several Duty Free shops on the avenue with a selection of luxury products. Bring trainers and swimwear. Walk around the city, go for a run and, if the weather allows, take a dip at Ensenada de Galápagos beach. Have a drink or soft drink at the kiosk in Melilla La Vieja. Stroll along the Avenida and O'Donnell, the shopping heart of the city, and make sure you visit the paseo de Horcas Coloradas.
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