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Seis artistas para seis destinos Baleària

Por Nacho Sánchez


Hay ciudades que no serían las mismas sin los artistas con los que han tenido una relación especial. Son nombres que marcan la historia de localidades en las que nacieron o en las que se asentaron en su madurez. Porque aún hoy decir Picasso es decir Málaga y nombrar a Sorolla es nombrar a València.

Pablo Picasso · Málaga

Pablo Picasso apenas pasó unos años de su infancia en Málaga. Luego residió en A Coruña y Barcelona para acabar viviendo la mayor parte de su vida en Francia. Pero en la capital de la Costa del Sol ha dejado una huella imborrable que hoy se recuerda de numerosas formas. La más llamativa, sin duda, el Museo Picasso Málaga, que el próximo octubre cumple 16 años. Una pequeña pero extraordinaria colección sirve para entender quién fue el genio malagueño. Otro lugar ligado totalmente a su figura es la Casa Natal, de propiedad municipal y donde se organizan exposiciones ligadas al artista, así como actividades y talleres. A partir de ahí, la huella de Picasso se deja ver en la iglesia de Santiago, donde fue bautizado o el palomar del Ateneo, donde su padre daba clases y, posiblemente, el niño Pablo Picasso dio alguno de sus primeros trazos. El mar siempre estuvo presente en su iconografía, aunque la mayor parte de referencias están ligadas a su paso por la Costa Azul, donde residió durante décadas disfrutando de la gastronomía, el clima y los paisajes de Vallauris, Antibes o Mougins.

Estátua de bronce de Pablo Picasso en Málaga

Joaquín Sorolla · València

Joaquín Sorolla es azul del cielo, es mar, arena de playa y reflejos. Sorolla es luz. Y es el pintor que, probablemente, mejor ha sabido retratar al Mediterráneo y sus influjos. Nacido en València, la capital del Túria es hoy otra ciudad gracias a él. Y no hay mejor opción que recorrerla siguiendo sus pasos y adoptando su punto de vista. Un buen lugar para empezar es el Museo de Bellas Artes de València que, desde el pasado 12 de marzo y hasta el próximo 31 de agosto de 2020, acoge la exposición El inicio de la pintura moderna en España: Joaquín Sorolla y su tiempo que cuenta con 125 obras pictóricas y 13 esculturas. A partir de ahí, la casa natal (calle de las Mantas, 8), la Escuela de Artesanos de València, su primero estudio en Calle San Martín, el Museo Lladró -que acoge siete obras de Sorolla- o el monumento València a Sorolla son algunas de las posibles paradas. Por supuesto, sin olvidar la Playa de la Malvarrosa, escenario de algunas de los más valorados trabajos del pintor valenciano y en el que darse un buen chapuzón para acabar el verano.

Andrés García Ibáñez · Melilla

En el coqueto y pequeño laberinto de calles que conforman Melilla la Vieja, muy cerca del puerto de la ciudad autónoma, se encuentra el Museo Ibáñez, ubicado en la Torre de la Vela. El centro ofrece un viaje de dos siglos por el arte español moderno y contemporáneo, aunque centra una mirada especial precisamente al artista que le da nombre: Andrés García Ibáñez, que nació en Olula del Río (Almería) pero ha estado muy ligado siempre con la localidad melillense. De hecho, buena parte de su colección personal está cedida a Melilla, que la ofrece en seis salas de la pinacoteca hermanada con la almeriense Museo Casa Ibáñez. Grabados de Goya, obras de Picasso o Dalí forman parte de este singular edificio que dedica una sala a la escultura modernista local con obras de Juan López, Emilio Manescau y Félix Alonso.

Antoni Gaudí · Barcelona

Nombrar a Gaudí es nombrar a Barcelona, ciudad en la que desarrolló su trabajo, con el que se convirtió en el máximo representantes del modernismo catalán, estilo que hoy hace más que reconocible a la propia Ciudad Condal y se ha convertido en uno de sus mayores atractivos. Basta acercarse hasta la Sagrada Familia para entender la grandeza de este arquitecto o disfrutar de un paseo por el Parque Güell y su ya simbólico lagarto. La capital catalana fue una de las principales inspiraciones del artista, muy unido a Cataluña y en cuya historia, paisajes, naturaleza y geografía se basó para muchas de sus creaciones. Siete de sus obras, entre las que se encuentran la Casa Milá, la Casa Vicens, la Casa Batlló o el Palacio Güell han sido declaradas Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la Unesco.

Basílica de La Sagrada Familia (Barcelona)

Joan Miró · Mallorca

Aunque Joan Miró nació en Barcelona, durante su vida siempre estuvo ligado a la isla de Mallorca. Allí pasó etapas de su infancia junto a su familia. Más tarde se casó con Pilar Juncosa, mallorquina. Y finalmente, en los años 50 del siglo pasado, se trasladó a vivir a Palma de Mallorca hasta su muerte en 1983. En la isla encontró la paz y la tranquilidad necesarias para su creación, se rodeó de una naturaleza y vivió una rica etapa creativa en los talleres que siempre soñó, construidos por Josep Lluis Sert. Dichas instalaciones son hoy la sede de la Fundación Joan y Pilar Miró, que acumula 7.000 objetos en su colección, la inmensa mayoría de Miró, pero también hay otras de diversos artistas. Este es el lugar más interesante para acercarse al creador y su relación con Mallorca, pero también dejó huella en la Fundación Juan March y en Es Baluard, el Museo de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo de Palma de Mallorca.

Fundación Joan Miró en Palma de Mallorca

Cesar Manrique · Lanzarote

Las Islas Canarias y, especialmente, Lanzarote, son el refugio de las obras de uno de los artistas más interesantes que, quizás, sea desconocido para muchos. Su nombre, César Manrique, es el que recibe a los miles de turistas que llegan al aeropuerto lanzaroteño, isla que merece la pena visitar solo para seguir la pista a Manrique. Los Jameos del Agua, en el municipio de Haría, son una de sus obras más singulares, como también el Jardín de Cactus de Guatiza o los juguetes de viento que están distribuidos estratégicamente por la isla. Uno de ellos se ubica en su casa, también en Haría, donde el artista encontró la tranquilidad y el contacto con la naturaleza que tanto apreciaba. De hecho, es precisamente la relación con lo natural, con el paisaje y la singularidad de Lanzarote la que marca su obra, que también busca una interconexión especial con el entorno. Basta acercarse al Mirador del Río, en el Risco de Famara, con maravillosas vistas a la isla de La Graciosa, para entenderlo. Pero también por las habitaciones de su casa o cómo cada uno de sus trabajos se funde con la isla.

Nacho Sánchez

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Morocco's Mediterranean side
Guías de viajes

Morocco's Mediterranean side

  This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome.   Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline.   1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre.   Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea   2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed.     3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish.   Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage   4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region.     5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village.   Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane     6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night.   7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters.   8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village.   Green is associated with Paradise in Islam   9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters.   10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants. 


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Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Guías de viajes

Mallorca on foot and on two wheels

  Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle.   With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera.   2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10.   Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it.   Sea and mountains in Sóller   7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife.   8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach.   9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet.   Horses accompany cycle tourists


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