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Italian La ciudad de la Isla Verde sabe que tiene rincones entre dos aguas que inspiraron a Paco de Lucía, su genio universal a componer, entre otros, los acordes de esa mítica melodía que viene a la mente con sólo oír hablar de guitarra. Ese genio es de Algeciras, de ello dejó constancia en muchos de los títulos de su discografía. Y su rastro puede seguirse ahora en una ruta que pasea por todos los hitos de la trayectoria de Francisco Sánchez Gómez, Paco de Lucía, en la ciudad donde nació y donde descansará eternamente. Entre dos aguas no es el único guiño a su tierra en la discografía del compositor. Algeciras está plagada de lugares que forjaron la vida y la obra del maestro. Y todos ellos están en un camino guiado que invita a adentrarse en episodios de la historia del genio y a conocer una ciudad que no sólo es portuaria. La ruta turística de Paco de Lucía pasa por todos ellos. Son nueve los hitos, señalizados con tótems explicativos, que propone la visita elaborada por el Ayuntamiento de Algeciras. Desde su casa natal en la Fuentenueva hasta el paraje del Río de la Miel, la ruta pasa por un camino plagado de anécdotas e historias que bien pueden servir para conocer sus orígenes y entender su música. Entre estos lugares está, por ejemplo, la céntrica calle Munición, que aunque ya no lleva este nombre y hace años que dejó de ser un hervidero de fiesta flamenca, sí fue lo suficientemente importante en la vida del compositor como para inmortalizarla en el título de unas alegrías del disco Luzía (1998). Y es que hasta allí llevaba Antonio de Algeciras a sus hijos Pepe y a un jovencísimo Paco a oír discos del Niño Ricardo. [gallery type="slideshow" link="none" size="full" ids="896,899,895"] Certamen Internacional de Guitarra Esa vía asoma a uno de los vestigios de los orígenes de la ciudad, el Complejo Arqueológico de las Murallas Medievales, unas ruinas situadas en pleno centro de Algeciras, y al parque María Cristina, donde Paco ofreció algunos de sus conciertos y donde desde hace dos años, al fresco de las noches de julio, se homenajea al maestro en el Certamen Internacional de Guitarra. La ruta invita a pasear por la calle Alfonso XI, o Convento para los locales, por la puerta del Ayuntamiento de la histórica Conferencia de Algeciras, donde Paco fue nombrado Hijo Predilecto. Y desde allí, camino hacia la Plaza Alta, que es el punto de paso de la vida de la ciudad mañanera. Original por las ranas que decoran su fuente, por el azulejo sevillano de los años 30 que reviste su balaustrada y por haber sido hecha universal por Paco de Lucía en una soleá del disco Almoraima (1976). No muy lejos, bajando por la calle Radio Algeciras, se llega al mercado Ingeniero Torroja. Bajo la que fuera la mayor cúpula sin nervios del mundo, construida en 1935, se sigue vendiendo hoy el mejor género de la zona y, entre otros productos, el pescado de esta bahía Entre dos aguas, la famosísima rumba de Fuente y Caudal (1973). En su exterior, donde hoy se ubican los vistosos puestos de fruta y verdura cerca de la calle Tarifa, tenía su puesto de telas la familia de Paco. De ahí que tenga su espacio en la ruta. Pero también lo tienen la playa del Chorruelo, a la que bajaban los clientes del hotel Reina Cristina, hoy engullida por el desarrollo portuario; el monumento de Paco de Nacho Falgueras, ahora ubicado en la rotonda de la dársena del Saladillo, pronto en el paseo del Acceso Central al puerto que llevará su nombre; la playa del Rinconcillo o parajes naturales dignos de una buena ruta senderista, como la punta del Faro de Punta Carnero o el Río Ancho de la rumba de Almoraima, el Río de la Miel. Araceli Muñoz | Periodista
Guías de viajes
Morocco's Mediterranean side
This region is perfect for exploring cities with centuries of history and switching off amid natural landscapes and unspoilt beaches. From Tangier to Nador, here are ten places in northern Morocco to discover by motorhome. Only a few kilometres separate Spain from Morocco; in less than an hour by ferry from southern mainland Spain, an entire country opens up that is best discovered slowly. The Rif massif dominates this Amazigh region and has shaped a landscape of small, remarkable roads that cross valleys and hug the coastline. 1: The gateway to Morocco Tangier This city is a gateway not only to Morocco but to the African continent. Located at a strategic point on the Strait of Gibraltar, it has Phoenician and Roman roots. The streets of the medina reveal both the Arab past and present, while this architecture mingles with 20th-century buildings dating from the period when Tangier was under international administration. Spanish influence can also be seen, for example in the Cervantes Theatre. Tangier's ceramics reflect the colour of the sea 2: Views over the Strait Cape Spartel Cape Spartel, ten kilometres from Tangier, offers one of the finest views over the Strait. This is where the Atlantic gives way to the Mediterranean. The lighthouse here was one of the first in the country and has been operating since 1864. It stands within a nature reserve that fills up at weekends with Tangier residents looking to escape the city for a family day out. Nearby are also the Caves of Hercules and the Atlantic beaches of Sidi Kacem and Achakkar where surfing and other water sports can be enjoyed. 3: The Atlantic coast Assilah The narrow white streets of Assilah have become an open-air museum. Murals bring colour to the medina of this small Atlantic town. From the old-city walls you can see the ocean and the town's sandy beaches. It is the perfect place to stop and enjoy some fish. Assilah's medina is recognised by UNESCO as historic heritage 4: The blue city Chefchaouen Morocco's blue pearl wins over travellers with its maze of lanes on the side of a mountain. The old town is a seemingly endless network of irregular streets lined with small shops selling souvenirs, clothes, food and spices. It is one of the best places to stay overnight and also a great base for enjoying the many walking trails in the region. 5: Switch off in nature Talassemtane National Park This natural park of almost 60,000 hectares is one of the treasures of the Rif Mountains. One of the best places to base yourself is the small village of Akchour, from where several routes set out into this mountainous area on foot or by bike. You can also see Atlas cedar forests and the waterfall named after the village. Streams and natural pools abound in Talassemtane 6: The White Dove Tetouan Back on the Mediterranean, Tetouan is an essential stop. Its buildings are white, while in the medina this colour mixes with the green of many doorways. The old town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tetouan is also known as “the daughter of Granada” because of its Hispano-Moorish architecture. A few kilometres away lies Martil beach, the closest coastal area to the city and a good place to spend the night. 7: Sea and mountains Al Hoceima National Park Following the coastal road from Oued Laou towards Al Hoceima brings you to this national park, a vast landscape of nature and mountains that descend towards the Mediterranean. Between the cliffs and rocky stretches are small hidden beaches and coves such as Taoussarte and Taydiwine. Ospreys can also be seen hunting over these waters. 8: Mediterranean beaches Oued Laou Set between the mountains, the beach and small fishing village of Oued Laou are among the best places to stop, unwind and take a break from the journey. The road from Tetouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco, following the coastline past cliffs and small rocky coves. Several campsites, shops and restaurants can be found near the village. Green is associated with Paradise in Islam 9: The city on the cliff Al Hoceima This Rif city lies on the coast, surrounded by beaches and home to one of the most important ports in northern Morocco. It stands on an impressive cliff. Between 1994 and 2004, two major earthquakes struck the area, causing more than 500 deaths. It was also one of the centres of resistance to Spanish colonisation. Today, it is one of the most popular places for locals and travellers to spend their summer holidays and enjoy the calm Mediterranean waters. 10: The eastern coast Nador Nador is the final stop and the most important city on Morocco's eastern coast, only a few kilometres from Melilla. The city overlooks the Mar Chica, a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea. Following the road east, you come to the well-known Red Beach, a rocky beach, and the long Ras El-Ma beach, with several kilometres of sand. Close to the Algerian border lies the resort town of Saïdia, where you will find numerous large hotels and restaurants.
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Guías de viajes
Mallorca on foot and on two wheels
Mallorca's mild climate and good transport connections have led many walkers and, above all, cyclists to choose the island for their favourite sport. Here are ten routes to get your legs moving, either on foot or without leaving the saddle. With 1,600 km of secondary roads and 468 km of signposted routes, Mallorca offers the perfect infrastructure for cycle tourism. Its diverse landscape —coastal, urban, rural and mountainous— also makes it ideal for exploring on foot. The experience is even better when the island is quieter, between October and May. 1: Contrasting landscapes along the old railway line The Manacor–Artà greenway This is not a circular route, so you will need to plan the return journey. At just under 30 kilometres, it is relatively easy and lets you enjoy a variety of landscapes without getting off the bike, following the old railway line. Starting east of Manacor, by the time you reach Artà you will have passed through tunnels and old stations and seen rural Mallorca, mountains, Mediterranean woodland and, in the distance, the coastline of s'Illot and Cala Millor. An easier alternative runs from Son Carrió to Son Servera. 2: Culture and the Serra de Tramuntana Valldemossa, Deià and Sóller The Valldemossa Charterhouse, where Chopin stayed, and Sóller's architectural heritage, particularly its Modernist buildings, make these two Serra villages well worth visiting. This road-bike route is for experienced cyclists. From Valldemossa, head to the Monastery of Miramar, founded by Ramon Llull, and Son Marroig, associated with Archduke Ludwig Salvator of Austria. Following the coast, you will reach Deià before descending to Sóller's Orange Valley. The route covers 36 km. 3: Mallorca's highest point, Lluc and the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs Puig Major from Sóller Another demanding route for experienced cyclists, but one that belongs in this top ten because it climbs the island's highest peak. From Sóller, climb to the Monnàber tunnel, around 900 metres long. Roughly 2 km farther on is the military base, where permission must be requested to access Puig Major. From its 1,445-metre summit, you can enjoy some of the island's finest views. Afterwards, descend towards the Lluc Sanctuary, another essential stop, passing the Cúber and Gorg Blau reservoirs. From Coll de Sa Batalla, return to Sóller along the MA-10. Walking among ancient stones 4: Beaches and natural parks by bike From Cala Egos to Es Trenc This non-circular road-bike route covers around 60 km. It takes in the coast of Santanyí and Campos and some of Mallorca's finest beaches. Starting in Cala Egos, head to Portopetro via Camí des Barranc, passing along the northern edge of Mondragó Natural Park. Continue alongside the torrent d'en Reieta to Santanyí, then cross this attractive town and ride on to Es Llombards, Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi. There you can leave the bike and, if the weather allows, walk for a while and take a dip in Es Trenc-Salobrar Natural Park or, at the other end, Es Carbó. All are spectacular beaches. 5: Great views of the Serra and the coast Planícia from Esporles This 30 km mountain-bike route is of moderate difficulty. Starting in Esporles, one of the Serra's prettiest villages, head towards Mirador de Mar along the old path that once linked the village with Port de Calonge. The views are spectacular. Return towards the MA-10 to descend towards Banyalbufar, but turn off first towards Planícia. Depending on your energy and available time, you can explore one of the three routes within this public estate. On the return journey, stop at the Es Verger viewpoint before continuing to another beautiful village, Banyalbufar, and from there back to Esporles. 6: Phoenician necropolis beside the beach Son Real The walk through the public estate of Son Real, in the municipality of Santa Margalida, is especially suitable for families. It is only around 2 km long, with no significant climbs or descents, and includes plenty to interest children. There are four possible routes, but the essential one leads to the impressive Punta des Fenicis necropolis, with burials dating from the Iron Age through to Roman times. And while you are there, you can enjoy a swim at the beach next to it. Sea and mountains in Sóller 7: Family walking and cycling S'Albufera S'Albufera de Mallorca Natural Park, in the north of the island, is ideal for families. There are four routes that can be completed on foot or by bike: Sa Roca, Es Colombars, Es Cibollars and Es Camí d'Enmig-Ses Puntes. The longest, around three hours, is the last of these, but all of them offer the chance to enjoy the park's rich wildlife, particularly its birdlife. 8: One of Mallorca's most photographed horizons Torrent de Pareis There are several routes, some even suitable only for mountaineers, leading to the spectacular mouth of this torrent, one of Mallorca's most photogenic beaches. The classic route is the descent through the gorge from s'Entreforc, where the Gorg Blau reservoir flows out: it takes around 6 hours, covers 5 km and requires experience or a good guide. The easiest family-friendly option is the path beginning at Sa Calobra beach. 9: Ramon Llull's place of contemplation Cura Sanctuary If Ramon Llull chose this as a place for spiritual retreat, there must have been a reason. Our suggested route starts in the village of Randa before climbing to Cura Sanctuary, where the Mallorcan philosopher withdrew in the 13th century and founded his school. Along the way, as well as enjoying impressive views, you will visit the Sant Honorat hermitage and Nostra Senyora de Gràcia Sanctuary. On the final section, along Camí de Bon Pastor, you can see some galleries that were used as ammunition stores during the Spanish Civil War. The only real difficulty is the access to Puig de Son Reus. 10: Refuge for Trappist monks during the French Revolution La Trapa Several paths lead to La Trapa, a monastery founded in 1810 by French Trappist monks who, twenty years after the storming of the Bastille, decided to flee the country. Abandoned only a few years later, the estate was acquired in 1980 by the environmental group GOB to prevent development. The most popular route to La Trapa begins at s'Arracó cemetery. Another route from Sant Elm follows the coastline. A third goes via Coll de Sa Gramola and is a good choice when the rocks are wet. All of them provide exceptional views of the Sa Dragonera islet. Horses accompany cycle tourists
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