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A 21st-century tourist icon, this city is having its moment. The capital of the Costa del Sol is now somewhere everyone wants to visit — and not only to visit, but to live. We uncover its secrets while following in the footsteps of one of its most illustrious residents: Pablo Picasso.
The 50th anniversary of Pablo Picasso's death and the 20th birthday of the museum bearing his name in Málaga are two perfect reasons to explore the streets, discover the city's heritage and feel the Mediterranean breeze. Here are a few tips for making the most of your time.
Day 1:
09.00
Traditional breakfast. Order a pitufo mixto and a nube wherever you go. You may not know what they are, but you will not go wrong. Try them at Framil, an old-fashioned café right in the centre. Or at the Calle de Bruselas café in Plaza de la Merced, just 20 seconds from your next stop.
10.00
Picasso's Birthplace. Pablo Picasso was born here in 1881. Now a museum, the house offers an insight into the young artist's development through the lessons given by his father and his contact with painters of the period.
Inside the Museo Picasso Málaga
11.00
Picasso trail. Following Picasso's footsteps through the historic centre is the perfect excuse to wander around the city at an unhurried pace. Santiago Church on Calle Granada is where he was baptised. In the building that now houses the Ateneo de Málaga, he learned to paint. And in Plaza de la Merced you can take a selfie with a statue of the artist. Along the way, look out for the city's heritage, old grocery shops and the everyday life pulsing through its streets.
12.30
Picasso Museum. On its 20th anniversary, this is the city's essential place for getting to know Picasso in depth. It offers excellent guided tours through its extensive collection of 162 works.
14.00
Endless lunch options. Málaga has no shortage of places to eat. Here are two suggestions to help you choose. If you want to stay in the centre, try Dani Carnero's take on Málaga flavours at La Cosmo or the exquisite dishes at Mimo Vegan Bistro. Outside the centre, L'a Taberna de Mike Palmer is a ten out of ten. That whisky omelette!
17.00
A good coffee. At Cheesquería you can have coffee with a choice of up to twenty different cheesecakes. Look out for the pistachio or mango and passion fruit versions. There is one branch in El Limonar —handy if you headed into the hills for lunch— and another in the centre. If you fancy carrying on walking, grab a takeaway coffee from Bertani on Calle Nueva. Another ten out of ten.
18.00
Surprises at the Botanical Garden. The La Concepción estate is home to more than 50,000 plants representing 5,000 varieties from around the world. Walking through it is like travelling around the planet without leaving Málaga.
21.00
Dinner with Antonio Banderas. There are a thousand ways to spend the evening, but here are three. First, La Tranca, a tavern of endless revelry with beers, copla and tapas. Then Dynamit, an elegant Nordic hideaway. And finally, El Tercer Acto, the restaurant at Antonio Banderas's Teatro del Soho. You might even spot him.
23.00
One last drink at El Muro. Hotels such as Only You, Valeria Room Mate and the AC Málaga Palacio offer excellent views and delicious cocktails from their central terraces near the graffiti of the Soho district. At street level, there is somewhere different, El Muro, where having a drink is pure fantasy.
Day 2:
10.00
Breakfast break. The team at Desal Café serve everything from croissants with eggs Benedict to pumpkin toast and molletes with pork loin in lard. They have branches on Calle Nosquera and Calle Ollerías.
11.00
Walk up to Gibralfaro. Head to the Alcazaba, walk around it and make your way leisurely up to Gibralfaro Castle, an impressive 14th-century fortress. Stop at the viewpoints on the way and get your phone ready.
Málaga's Alcazaba from Muelle Uno in the port
13.00
Aperitif by the beach. Walk alongside the Mediterranean to reach the neighbourhood of Pedregalejo. There are countless places to enjoy a drink in the sun before lunch. Frida Pahlo or Galerna are our favourites.
14.00
Time for pescaíto. What would Málaga be without fried pescaíto? Since you are in the eastern part of the city, stop at one of these beach restaurants: Andrés Maricuchi, El Cabra or Merlo. Another round of espetos!
17.00
Cycling by the sea. The seafront promenade into the centre has a cycle lane, so make the most of it. You can also cycle east towards Peñón del Cuervo beach. Feel the sea breeze on two
wheels. Does life get any better?
19.00
Palmeral de las Sorpresas. Muelle Uno in the port —close to where Baleària ferries leave for Melilla— is now a shopping, cultural and leisure district. Walk as far as La Farola. It will surprise you. This is one of the best places to watch the sun set over the city's skyline. The sunset will stay in your memory as a reminder that you need to return to Málaga.
Cyclists and walkers beside Peñón del Cuervo beach
Activities celebrating Picasso
The Museo Picasso Málaga is celebrating its twentieth anniversary this year. Opened in 2003, it paved the way for other cultural spaces that followed in its wake, including the Museo Thyssen, Centre Pompidou and Museo Ruso. During 2023 it prepared around fifty activities dedicated to the brilliant Málaga-born artist. One of the most interesting is the exhibition Picasso: materia y cuerpo.
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